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How can I tell the quality of a mokume ring?
![]() "Edge Grain" mokume is the most durable mokume, with the cleanest definition and greatest variety of pattern. "Edge Grain" mokume is a George Sawyer original technique used in all George Sawyer mokume pieces.
Unless there is a design reason for a break in the pattern, the pattern should be continuous and unbroken all the way around the ring, with no disruption from seams, sizing, etc.
If there is a silver, copper or copper alloy layer in the mokume, the ring should be fully lined to prevent the finger from discoloring.
![]() The effect of natural electrolysis or corrosion on copper, shakudo and some other non-gold metals can cause flaking of the surface in twist pattern, star pattern and some other generic mokume styles.
Patinas on shakudo, copper, copper alloys, silver or gold are delicate and will not survive on a ring.
![]() Pattern line and color work should be distinct and crisp. There should be no fuzzy lines between color layers.
Pattern work and sculptural design should be unique to each maker, as distinct as a signature. Avoid knock-offs and generic material.
Look for high quality goldsmithing techniques, with balance and harmony between the pattern work and sculptural shape of the entire piece.
![]() No nickel should be in white gold or any other metal alloys used in the ring. Nickel causes more allergic reactions in wearers than any other metal.
A mokume ring should have the heft, feel and weight of quality jewelry. Thin rings and rings made with thin mokume veneers will have durability and strength problems.
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